We arrived in Tram Chim on a small boat in May, when the summer heat strikes. The smell of alum fills the air. But after a while the scenery changes, the water surface becomes full of water ferns, and violet water hyacinth flowers quiver under the sunlight. In the distance lies the green and immense 'heaven’s rice' (or 'ghost' rice which grows wild) fields. Tan, our tour guide, gave the signal to head into the rice fields to pick up some young rice flowers. The sweet scent of rice enchanted those of us who had visited Tam Nong district, Dong Thap province first.